December 27, 2007 3:25 PM
BY: JAY FORMAN
A gourmet’s guide to what’s happening with food and wine in the city.
my bite of the big apple
For most New Orleanians, Mardi Gras is a must. But there is a subset of locals who prefer to forgo the peak of Carnival season to seek distractions elsewhere. Some living on parade routes don’t want to put up with the logistics of getting home from work before the krewes roll, others like to take advantage of the time off for winter sports. And for food lovers, one perennial travel destination is New York City, because a journey there can amount to a pilgrimage. After all, the dining scene in the Big Apple is changing all the time, so constant monitoring is a must if you want to
stay in the know.
Kyotofu dessert
For upscale dining, Jean Georges is, simply put, one of New York’s finest. Only a few places in the city have been awarded three Michelin stars, and this restaurant in the Trump International Hotel on Columbus Circle is one of them. Every aspect of a meal here is special, from the elaborately composed amuse-bouche to the coffee with truffles—and everything in between.
For dinner, you have a choice of either a four- or seven-course prix fixe menu.
Yet, even with the four course option, the choices are exhaustive. Chef Jean Georges Vongerichten’s sea scallops with caramelized cauliflower and caper-raisin emulsion is one signature dish. More adventurous diners might enjoy the Santa Barbara sea urchin with black bread, jalapeno and yuzu. The four lobes of uni with this one are utterly different from the mass-market product found at typical sushi restaurants. Silky, unctuous and coming across as an oceanic foie gras, their coupling with Japanese citrus brightens the flavor while the jalapeño adds a touch of heat.
A second course of red snapper with water chestnut-radish salad was flavored with white sesame seeds and lavender. For a more decadent turn, the sautéed foie gras with chestnuts and brandy is winter dish sure to warm the body and soul. The poached lobster in saffron tapioca with Gewurztraminer foam is worth the supplemental charge, and the smoked squab a l’orange tilts more toward the sweet than the savory when paired with Asian pear and a sour candied tamarind paste.
Desserts by chef pâtissier Johnny Iuzzini are remarkable. Each option is a
composed tasting built around four individualized components. Standouts this time included a cider soda with rum-infused apples and sarsaparilla froth and a made-to-order miniature apple fritter with hazelnuts and Saigon cinnamon.
Such indulgences do not come cheap. The entry level prix fixe is $98 per person and the seven-course dinner jumps to $148, sans drinks. However, those on a budget will find a good value in the lunch prix fixe for $24.07, one of the better fine dining values in the city. A more elaborate lunch tasting menu is also available for $68.
While in the area, be sure to visit the Time-Warner Center and stroll through one of the world’s more rarified collection of restaurants including Thomas Keller’s Per Se and his more accessible Bouchon Bakery. Mall dining was never this good.
If your tastes lean more to the hip than the luxe, take a taxi down to the Momofuku Ssäm Bar in the East Village. Don’t let the name—“Momofuku” is Japanese for “lucky peach”—fool you. This is a place for unabashed meat-lovers—the menu explicitly states that they “do not serve vegetarian friendly items.” Open until 2 a.m., this place is a favorite with chefs getting off work, and can get wild in the late hours.
As means of a local reference, think Cochon reinterpreted through a Korean lens. Here you will find an entire section of menu devoted exclusively to country hams (Benton’s Smoky Mountain is really good). Small plates are a fun way to go here, and most dishes are meant to be shared. The misnomered “steamed buns” are actually disks of tender dough folded over a filling of flavorful pork belly, Hoisin sauce, cucumbers and scallions. Kind of like a Asian fusion taco, they are addictive and near impossible to put down. The spicy squid salad comes punched up with Sichuan peppercorns and red chili; celery is included to help cool things off a bit. And for the truly decadent, the Bo Ssäm is a whole pork butt served with a dozen oysters, kimchi and rice. This must be ordered in advance and will set you back $180, so if you go this way plan early and bring a lot of friends. A quirky drink menu includes a private label sake and a small but inspired selection of Japanese beers.
Kyotofu dessert
photos courtesy of Kyotofu
Another Asian-influenced place garnering a lot of contemporary buzz is Kyotofu, a remarkable little boîte on Ninth Avenue. A combination Japanese bakery, dessert bar and savory snack shop, the tiny location seems to have been airlifted straight from the Harajuku neighborhood of Tokyo. Looking for all the world like the first-class upper deck lounge of well-appointed JAL 747, this is a really neat place to wind up your evening. Among the great selection of cupcakes is their chocolate soufflé version, which New York Magazine voted “Best New Cupcake of 2007.” More esoteric iterations are offered, such as green-tea and white chocolate. For plated desserts, the black sesame sweet tofu is made with roasted green tea syrup and comes garnished with goji berries. It is akin to a less-sweet, green tea panna cotta. For a broader selection of the wares, consider ordering the Kaiseki prix fixe, a three-course dessert sampler. An accompanying sake pairing is available for $12 more. Other drinks include confusing Japanese sodas and a list of great sakes that go well with the sweets.
try this
The salt-baked shrimp at New York Noodletown on the Bowery is the real deal and the suckling pig is quite good as well. Another plus: For Chinatown, this place is easy to find. Relatively.
NYC Dining
Great New York Noodletown
28 1/2 Bowery
212/349-0923
Jean Georges
1 Central Park West (Columbus Circle)
212/299-3900
Momofuku Ssäm Bar
207 Second Ave.
212/254-3500
Kyotofu
705 Ninth Ave.
212/974-6012