BY: DIANE SUSTENDAL

Eddie Bonin, Gayfryd Steinberg, Walda Besthoff and René Fransen at René's birthday bash.

Whether or not the temperatures drop from summer sizzle to somewhat autumnal, this is the season of evening dresses, black tie and serious jewelry. Everything from benefits to sensational weddings to elegant weekends in the country takes place.

Even lunch! In New York, nobody has lunch unless it’s business. New Orleans is so civilized—here, people actually meet just to visit, laugh, gossip and talk. I found myself with Jeanne Nathan, Sandra Pulitzer, Karen Sommer Shalett, Lyn Fischbach and Dian Wininger at Antoine’s enjoying lunch as everyone seems to these days. Who knew the restaurant had a $25 prix fixe lunch? Colette Guste, of the “family,” pulled up a chair for a visit and later sent out baked Alaska for Karen, who announced a baby is on the way.

Designer Mario Villa entertains at home at lunch—and an invite from Mario is not to be turned down. The food, conversation and ambience are as lively as his place eclectic. Over black beans and rice, a pork roast and fire-hot salsa, Bob and Renee Kelly discussed a trip to Rio, and Martha Conover and Mario chatted about a painting on glass course he is teaching at the New Orleans Museum of Art. I signed up on the spot.

With all this lunching, how do the sleek and handsome fit into the gowns and dinner jackets come nightfall? Mario says he eats nothing after 6 p.m. Carey Bond runs five miles every day. My whippet-thin cooking instructor in Tuscany says choose between bread or pasta, but never eat both at the same meal. If you have any other tips please share.

Blowing out Candles

Not eating is impossible at a birthday party, and there have been some really special fêtes recently.

Rodney Smith’s soirée for his beautiful wife Frances was everything you would expect from these two: elegant setting, delicious food, lovely and delightful music. Toasting the birthday girl at the Smith’s enormously chic French Quarter residence were Ella Brennan, Tommy and Dathel Coleman, Matilda Stream and others.

René Fransen just celebrated a birthday at home in the French Quarter. Hundreds of luminaries lit the doors and were placed all around courtyard. Candles and greenery—so, so chic. Like you were expecting purple, green and gold swags from one of the country’s top landscape architects? René and partner Eddie Bonin were surrounded by family and friends including Remy, Henry, and Chris Fransen, Allain and Pauline Hardin and daughter Kathleen. Some of the pals pouring in included Gayfryd Steinberg, who flew in from New York, André de La Barre, Torie Kanze, Dr. Brobson Lutz, Dr. Ken Combs, Leslie Newman, architect Lee Ledbetter and on, and on.

The invite read: Nov. 9 A Big Day in History: 1865 Lee Surrenders to Grant ... 1965 Willie Mays National League MVP … Gretchen Weigand Bosworth born. Her husband Charlie Bosworth and Paula Dickey had folks rocking and rolling, but not opening presents. The birthday girl requested: “In lieu of gifts please consider a donation to Odyssey House of Louisiana.” Love when people do that.

The gift of family was what Lizzette Mackie Lautenschlaeger wanted for her 100th birthday. So, on Nov 11 a dinner was held at #1 Audubon Place, the family home for more than 60 years. Hosted by her son Lester Lautenschlaeger Jr. and her daughter Lisette and husband Harry Verlander Jr. and their five children, the honoree and guests were treated to some of her favorite foods: boiled shrimp, crabmeat dip, oyster patties, smoked beef tenderloin and butter beans. The cake was a classic half lemon, half chocolate doberge.

Talk of the Town

Starting with a giddy send-up entitled “Secret Lives of Notable New Orleanians” benefiting of the Metropolitan Opera National Council Auditions, November was a month of flitting about for good causes, holiday shopping and serious fun.

Big Brothers/Big Sisters’ “Diamond Tribute Gala,” on Nov. 6 had special performances by Allen Toussaint and George Huff. Someone else won the amazing $12,000 diamond ring donated by Symmetry Jewelers, and I didn’t win the fur coat or the Emery Clark painting, either. But the party raised a lot of money for a very fine organization, which is the oldest mentoring organization in the United States. This year’s Diamond Tribute honorees were: Adelaide Wisdom Benjamin, Ron Forman, Dr. Norman Francis, Deuce McAllister, Ed Muniz and the late Pat Taylor.

The “Ida Kohlmeyer: Systems of Color Retrospective” at the Newcomb Art Gallery is a don’t miss. It closes Dec. 19. Paintings and sculpture are laid out chronologically from the early Mark Rothko days through the Orleans Gallery era to the newer sculptures—it is much more than eye-candy.

Horticulturists flocked to St. Francisville for the 17th annual Southern Garden Symposium & Workshops. Ralph Null whose designs have graced the White House was the keynote speaker of a program that began in the ruins of Afton Villa. Some of the familiar faces in the crowd were Morrell Trimble, decorator Mary Ferry Bigalow, Jamie Charbonnet, NPR correspondent Jennette Hardy, Lake Douglas, and sisters Beth Maunsell Smith and Kathy Maunsell Posey.

The Academy of the Sacred Heart auction was a huge success with Linda Tufton and Mollee Clark at the helm of a pirate-theme sell-off. Yours truly gave a “What to Wear, Not to Wear” wardrobe consulting effort. It’s fun to spend a day in someone else’s closet helping them clean up and out.

Nothing like a weekend in the country to revive the spirits. A merry little band gathered to laugh and cook a pre-Thanksgiving dinner at the ancestral plantation of Gay LeBreton and husband Jimmy Farwell, whose play is in the casting stage in London. There were long walks amid cane fields and a chance to pull out the cashmere sweaters.

The holidays are here ... capes and caps will be flying; cups will runneth over. May you be surrounded by love and light, and have a designated driver as you make your rounds. If not, don’t forget there are taxis for the calling.

Merry, Merry, Happy, Happy.