BY: PHOTOS COURTESY OF LÜKE RESTAURANT

A gourmet’s guide to what’s happening with food and wine in the city.

BRINGING BACK THE BRASSERIE
The Germanic presence in the New Orleans dining scene is often overshadowed by the far more popularized French, Creole, Italian and Cajun influences. Compounding this is the fact that many of the venerable German restaurants, Kolb’s for example, have closed their doors and live on in memory only. But now chef John Besh has reintroduced German-inspired cuisine to the city through the venue of his new brasserie: Lüke (333 St. Charles Ave.).

Chef Jared Tees of Lüke

To turn Lüke into a reality, he brought Jared Tees on board as a both a partner and also as executive chef. The personable Blake LeMaire signed on as general manager as well. Nested in the heart of the CBD (it is located in the space that used to be Cobalt restaurant), this completely renovated space convincingly exudes Old World elegance. Elaborate wood parquetry decorates the floor, and an old-fashioned assembly of pulley and belt-driven ceiling fans evoke memories of Kolb’s. Accents of polished brass and a pressed-tin ceiling help to round out the authentic feel of this brasserie.

Appetizers here feature a rich assortment of house-made pâtés, among other offerings. The pâtés de Champagne of Texas wild boar is enlightened with the effervescence of champagne and served alongside house-made watermelon pickles and champagne gelée. A rustic rillette of Berkshire pork is served in a glass Mason jar atop a wooden cutting board, accessorized with tiny, tart cornichons, homemade mustard and delectable marmalade.

Those seeking earthy German fare can also enjoy a traditional choucroûte maison of sausages and Berkshire pork belly. Grilled boudin noir, hard to find on local menus, is served with a sauté of potatoes, apples and onions. Beef brisket, another German staple, is accompanied by a horseradish ravigote sauce. Diners seeking lighter fare can avail themselves of fresh seafood options, which often swing back towards regional cuisine such as a dressed-up version of shrimp and grits, which receives some assertive zip from Jacob’s andouille, and a redfish court bouillon.

The famed french fries

A substantial portion of the menu demonstrates French pedigree as well, including an entrecôte grillée. This well-marbled and thinly cut serving of rib eye, garnished with a simple pat of herbed butter, is sure to please carnivores, who will doubtless also find satisfaction in filet of beef with potatoes dauphin served with marrow butter and oxtail jus. Save room for a cone of the pommes frites, which are fried in duck fat and are addictively delicious. Dessert, if you have the stamina to continue, includes French classics such profiteroles with Valrhona chocolate and a classic vanilla crème brûlée, elegant in its simplicity.

Augmenting the wide-ranging menu is a trio of custom-brewed house beers and a wine list featuring selections from the Loire, Alsace and Savoie regions. The unpretentious wines are served by the carafe alongside humble tumblers in lieu of fancy stemware, as befits a brasserie.

One of the sophisticated dishes at Lüke

SUMMER SPECIALS ABOUND AROUND TOWN
Headed out to City Park? You might want to wind down your day by taking advantage of Ralph’s on the Park  (900 City Park Ave.) “Three Appetizers + Glass of Wine” special for $25. This is a great way to sample a broad cross-section of their extensive appetizer menu. Some good bets include the duck confit egg rolls—a contemporary concoction given a local hook with the inclusion of mirliton. The Crystal oysters are a winner as well. Rolled in andouille, flash fried, and then drizzled with hot sauce-spiked butter, they are served alongside a cooling slaw of mirliton and red onion. For those who don’t want to stray too far off the path, traditionalists can play it safe with options like turtle soup and shrimp remoulade. This is an evening-only special, so those preferring an early start might also consider the very good weekend brunch here as well.

At Bayona (430 Dauphine St.), chef Susan Spicer offers several excellent dishes to help ease us into the hot summer months. Her cream of garlic soup is refreshing while also providing a bit of bite, and her appetizer of grilled shrimp with black bean cake and coriander sauce has established itself as a classic. Entrées like lemongrass scallops with coconut lime broth and roasted eggplant embrace delicate ingredients presented in a way that complement courtyard dining perfectly—the lemongrass, coconut and lime all evoke tropical environs, as does dining beneath the lush foliage of the courtyard. Now is a good time to rediscover Bayona, as it is offering 17-cent martinis at lunch Wednesdays through Fridays to celebrate its 17 years in business. Guests can augment their drinks with any entrée plus a soup or salad for $17 as well. Bayona has added a Saturday lunch seating, where guests can order three small plates for $20.

NEW AND NOTABLE
A new pastry shop has opened at the Windsor Court Hotel (300 Gravier St.). Housed in the Signature Boutique in the lobby of the hotel, exotic delicacies such as summer berry and Riesling gelee (again with the German) are available, along with more traditional temptations like chocolate and caramel tarts.

Complementing pastry chef Melissa Grimm’s desserts are a selection of upscale sandwiches, coffees and salads boxed up and ready to go, making this a good place to pick up a quick office lunch for downtown workers or for guests heading to the airport who crave something more substantive than a foil packet of peanuts.

At the understated Alberta (5015 Magazine St.), chef Melody Pate continues to turn out charming, unabashedly French-inspired dishes to a cadre of friends and admirers who consistently pack her tiny dining room. A rich appetizer of escargot with gnocchi and mushroom ragout is substantive and ensures that you will clean your plate. Fans of sweetbreads will enjoy Pate’s version, which incorporates a roasted garlic Marsala sauce. An entrée of seared scallops in a blood orange-infused butter sauce is garnished with sweet pea shoots, making for a bright, composed dish with light and summery undertones.