BY: JAY FORMAN

I’ll Have a Pastrami on Rye …

He may be dressed in Phillie sports garb, but Dan Stein of Stein’s Market and Deli can make a sandwich to rival any New York-style deli. 

Local delis channel New York City
Fans of New York-style delis have long endured thin pickings here in New Orleans. Good bagels are hard to come by in this land of French bread and beignets, and requests for whitefish salad elicits puzzled looks in a region where redfish reigns. Those craving Nova lox and genuine half-sours oftentimes depend on friends making the occasional business trip to Manhattan to bring such delicacies back home to the Big Easy. But deli options are blossoming here, anchored by the stalwart Kosher Cajun Deli & Grocery (3520 N. Hullen) in Metairie and newcomer Stein’s Market and Deli (2207 Magazine St.) in Uptown.

Stein’s, which opened in February, has staked out a convenient location along lower Magazine Street near Jackson Avenue. The single, cavernous room and soaring ceiling assert that this place is all about business. A couple of dine-in tables facing Magazine Street are offered up front, and a collection of deli cases running the flank of the space showcase the breadth of offerings.

Owner Dan Stein, formally of Martin Wine Cellar, offers his own vision of a deli to locals. “I set out to do my own thing,” Stein says. “But I do try to keep my stuff true to style. When I put a pastrami sandwich together, I want to have the right ingredients—the spicy brown mustard, the seeded rye and I want those ingredients to be very good. It’s not rocket science, but at the same time it is a lot harder than people think to do something like this.”

Stein certainly stays true to style with his Reuben, a sandwich which serves double-purpose as both a yardstick for a good deli as well as a lunchtime favorite. Stein’s passes both tests with flying colors. While a good Reuben in the past
has been about as easy to come by as a Zulu coconut, lovers of this specialty can finally relax: you can get a good one here. The hot corned beef is piled high on seeded rye brought in from New York, and the quality Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and Russian dressing on this grilled sandwich seal the deal.

Other winners include the Reuben’s sister sandwich the Rachel, which trades the corned beef for hot pastrami. The bagels come from H&H in New York, and the half-sour pickles are the real thing. An admittedly untraditional offering of a BLT is notable for its inclusion of fantastic Nueske’s bacon. First-time restaurant owner Stein brought in chef Kristen Olsen to help him out behind the counter. “She has extensive cooking and catering experience,” Stein says. “She’s my rock.”

While waiting for your sandwich, it might be best to sit on your hands because otherwise you might not resist the temptation to impulse-buy your way into triple-digits with the great assortment of condiments and dry-goods offered.

Cane sugar vinegar sits alongside different sea salts including Maldon, Viking and bright Fleur de Sel. Sugars scented with both cannelle and vanilla are proffered in rustic woven bags, and a collection of aged balsamic vinegars can be found on a rack towards the back. Saffron threads are sold in jewel-like, wax-sealed glass bottles.

From Scharffen Berger to Sriracha, Stein’s has it all. In the cold cases you will find a broad selection of products including three types of feta cheese: French, Bulgarian and Greek. A collection of olives is rounded out with large caper berries and delicious peppadews. Caviars include New World selections like paddlefish and bowfin and a particularly extensive collection of cheeses occupies its own special case, offering up an intriguing variety including famously stinky Epoisse, creamy Humboldt Fog and crumbly trapezoids of Chevrot. Cured meats include Italian and Spanish offerings like soppresatta, prosciutto and Serrano ham. Real parmigiano-reggiano butter is offered as well.

To be certain, such pleasures comes at a cost—to experience this taste of New York you can expect to pay New York prices. Still, the real deal is worth a few extra bucks.

Kosher Cajun: The Tradition Continues As for the question of where Stein gets his authentic seeded rye, look no further than the Kosher Cajun in Metairie. Owner Joel Brown brings in the authentic bread from New York for his friend on Magazine Street. The Kosher Cajun has been serving the local community since 1987, and has carved out a unique niche for itself. More than a restaurant, the location includes a small but well-stocked kosher grocery in the back. In the cold cases, customers can find fresh and frozen chicken, bison and beef, all prepared to kosher standards. Bakery items include rugelach and babka, brought in from New York.

A Reuben from Stein’s.

This family-owned and -operated deli is kid friendly and community oriented. A small kids’ menu serves up the burger and chicken nugget basics, and Coney Island Hot Dogs are offered as well. There is plenty of seating up front and a selection of toys and candies are available as well. Sports memorabilia decorates the walls above the wine section, including a signed Manning triptych of Archie, Peyton and Eli.

Great matzoh ball soup can be had here, and classic standbys such as chopped liver and whitefish salad are piquant accompaniments to their bagels. Lean corned beef and pastrami make for great sandwiches, and an extensive list of sides such as potato latkes and a selection of delicious knishes happily round out a meal. For those wanting something from the grill, a short but delicious selection of hot dinner options include everything from burgers to lamb chops. Also, a surprising kosher fried shrimp poor-boy (made from imitation shrimp) is available as well. Catering for large groups is available, making rustling up supplies for a party a snap.

During a recent visit the inspirational phrase “Tough times don’t last – tough people do!” was prominently displayed on a chalkboard hung near the front door. This motto seemed especially reassuring to those of us here in New Orleans, reminding us that while hard times come and go, at least in this city we can always be assured of a good meal.

try this
Cuvée’s (322 Magazine St.) new menu features addictive chevre-stuffed peppadews wrapped with Serrano ham, grilled and served on a skewer. Bet you can’t eat just one …